Question for GLOCK Owners

Anyone Ever Had One of Your Assembly Pins Come Partially Out at the Range?


Here’s what happened, in order:

  1. Purchased a 21lb recoil spring for my Gen 4 GLOCK 27 (if you don’t know already, that’s a .40 S&W)
  2. While waiting on order, sent e-mail to support to ask them if it was ok to use with factory ammo
  3. Receive spring in mail & install it (on package the spring was in, it simply said that it was to reduce recoil, and didn’t say anything at all about what sort of ammo to use with such a spring).
  4. Receive eMail from Glockstore support saying that it was intended for +P ammo, and that I might get some “stove pipe jams” using “regular” factory ammo. No mention of any other possible issues.
  5. Went to range. Fired about 120 rounds.
  6. Came home, happy that it had worked well with factory ammo. Recoil/muzzle jump reduced & accuracy improved a good bit.
  7. Field stripped the pistol to clean it, and discovered my rear (through the grips) assembly pin was halfway out
  8. Pushed pin back in with my thumb
  9. Put my +P self-defense ammo magazine back in & re-holsterd for concealed carry, & haven’t shot it since.

Now, I have sent the Glockstore an email asking if that spring could have attributed to the pin coming partially out, and told them I was extremely glad it didn’t come totally out while I was shooting. Sent that mail this morning and an awaiting a reply.

Meanwhile, I’ve ordered some stainless steel replacement assembly pins, and a Glock armorer’s tool (& a 3.5 lb trigger connector).

Now I’ve been considering that pin coming partially out a good bit. Doesn’t make sense to me at all. I don’t care if the recoil spring was 31 lbs, that should NOT have happened in my opinion. The very worst thing that should’ve happened would be a “stove pipe jam” from the slide not cycling rearward far enough to allow for proper case ejection. There is no way that I can think of to justify my pin coming half out. It just DOES NOT MAKE SENSE TO ME!

So, anyone ever had anything similar happen? If so, did you determine why?

If you haven’t ever had a pin come partially out during a shooting session, given the above info, do you have any speculations as to why MINE did?

It just couldn’t be internal pressure from factory ammo that did it. The spring would merely compensate for increased pressure. NO excessive pressure should have been put upon the grip area, especially by factory ammo, UNLESS the slide was cycling rearward too hard and in turn hitting the rear of the pistol wayyy too hard on the forward motion. However, if it had been doing that, then certainly I would have gotten a jam because the slide would have cycled forward so dang fast that a casing would have not properly ejected. Also, forward slide pressure against the frame on the return stroke seems like it would do nothing causing a lateral motion necessary for the pin to slide out at all. Actually, to me it seems like it would just draw the pin into the frame harder, rather than loosening anything up.

ANY IDEAS ON THIS WHOLE PIN ISSUE??? If it happened to you, what would you do? Think my pistol is FUBAR?

I suppose I’ll contact my armorer and ask them for the time being, but I just can’t imagine they’ll say anything more than to put the factory spring back in, which I do NOT want to do. I bought the dang thing to reduce recoil, and it does so even with factory ammo which was still properly extracted. See, I only have my 2nd, 3rd, little finger & thumb on my shooting hand. I lost my index finger & metacarpal due to a severe thermal burn when I was working on an ejection seat in the USAF…which is a lot of the reason why I NEED to reduce recoil. I can get a good grip on the pistol, even one handed, but after 100+ rounds, the ‘regular’ recoil starts to wear on my hand to the extent that the hand slides upward on the rear of the frame (slightly above the “beavertail” and I sometimes get just a little slide burn on the web space between my (now) first finger & thumb…hence my intense desire to reduce recoil.

Does anyone think there might be a manufacturing defect in my pistol? Would you call GLOCK? I may. I just don’t friggin like the idea of taking a chance on my pistol coming apart on me while firing a round. That just could not possibly be a good thing!!!! I mean, I don’t think it would “blow up” in my hand — heck, with the other two pins still in, I doubt much of anything would happen — but regardless, a pin coming part way out during a range session is definitely an issue as I see it.

I’ll take whatever input anyone may have on this. Be sure to consider the facts I’ve given and run the logic on the concept, but comment away if you would? 😀


Also check: A Poor Parts Combo for The Glock 27

A Poor Parts Combo for The Glock 27

Okies a, I’ve been changing parts and stuff on my G27 again.  This time I put in a 3.5lb connector (trigger connector for those who may not understand what I’m saying).

Thing is, the last part change was from the stock to a 21lb recoil spring, wherein I was warned about jams with that sort of spring with “regular” (meaning not +P) ammo, which didn’t happen initially.

So, last night I installed a “Ghost Rocket Connector, 3.5lbs” for my trigger pull weight to be 3.5lbs.

Took it to the range today to check it out.


I noticed two things.

The first prominent issue was that I couldn’t fire at a rate higher than about a round per second without a jam.

The second thing I noticed (or didn’t notice), was that there was no felt change in the trigger pull, crispness, or reset.

Now, I blame the jams on two things.

One, the heavy recoil spring with factory ammo, as I was warned about by the

Two, I had put a reasonable (but not too heavy) amount of Brownell’s Action Lube on my slide rails and ALL moving parts of my pistol.  So, whereas last time I fired, the slide was not cycling as quickly, hence no jams, even with the heavier spring, but this time, with the heavier spring still installed, and the ability to squeeze the trigger more quickly due to the connector change, I believe that the slide was just cycling back too fast to grab & feed the cartridges.

My solution is this:

At the range, I will continue to use the lighter trigger connector, but will use the factory recoil spring.

When carrying my +P ammo, I will use the heavier recoil spring.  HOWEVER, I DO need to get some more Zombie Max rounds and test them rapid fire with the heavy spring and with the factory spring to compare.  I’m pretty certain that the +P ammo will function fine in the pistol the way it is….but next time I shoot factory ammo at the range, I WILL put in the factory recoil spring (unless I decide on a less heavy one that is still  heavier than “factory”).

This is why we test fire after changing parts!  We MUST be certain our firearm is working at tip-top shape if we are to rely on it to protect our lives or the lives of those we love!!!

Peace Ya All

Common sense gun safety


There are entirely too many accidents involving firearms in our country. I recently saw where a guy shot his step-son in his home because he thought he was an intruder. That was a very stupid, irresponsible mistake!


If you can’t positively identify your target, then do NOT pull that trigger!

The first and most important rule of gun handling is to not point your firearm, handgun or otherwise, at anything you do not want to kill or completely destroy. Pretty much common sense, but so many people get into bad habits…

Another rule that is often broken and causes accidents is having live ammo in the area when you are cleaning your firearm. This is NOT a safe practice.

I frequently see news stories about people being accidentally shot, sometimes fatally, in their own homes by an accidental discharge. I prefer to call these “foolish” discharges, because someone has to make a foolish mistake for this to happen. Any gun owner can make these mistakes. Not acceptable. See above….if you aren’t intentionally going to kill or destroy something or someone, then please don’t point your gun at it/them!

As for children’s’ deaths by firearms accidents, it is usually a result of someone not positively securing their firearms where children cannot access them, and further, storing loaded guns, or storing ammo in the same place as the LOCKED UP guns.

When your child is starting to crawl and get into stuff, you put “child safety devices” throughout your home (hopefully). But then when they are older and curious about different sorts of things, you don’t lock your guns up, separate from the ammo, where that curious child can get to them??? Does that make sense??

Keep ALL guns and ammo out of the reach of children, and by children, I mean people in your home under age 21, who have no safe firearms handling training. As a matter of fact, even if they are adults, keep your guns locked up anyway. If you permit them to have a gun in your home, then require the same from them.

Personally, although my son is an armed guard, my pistol stays on my side, or in a vault to which only I have the combination. It is not a matter of trust — it is a matter of common sense safety. Please take responsibility and properly store your guns and ammo…

Let’s move on a little bit and talk about range safety. When you are at a firing range, there should be a person called the “Rangemaster”. Follow his or her instructions to the letter. Before you start shoring on said range, be sure you have read all the range rules, and KNOW them.

Keep your gun pointed down range at all times, no exceptions, loading/unloading/firing/changing targets/whatever.

When you are going down range during a “cease fire”, ensure your gun is unloaded and the bolt or slide or other mechanism is out of battery. Proceed down range ONLY when a cease fire has been called. When you return, stand behind the firing line until cleared by the range master that the range is again live.

When you are finished with your session, unload your gun, take it out of battery, and put it in its case. If you need to get your target, wait for the next cease fire to do so, and follow the previous instructions.

Procedures at different ranges may vary, and this is just a basic guide. Be sure you know the specific safety procedures and rules for the range at which you are shooting.

If by chance you have the ability to shoot on private land, be sure you fire in a safe direction, taking your gun’s range capability and other pertinent factors into consideration.
Shoot at a backstop of some sort.
Be sure there are no other people in the area.
Be extra careful!

Again, all of these are general guidelines that may vary slightly from place to place.

Just please make safety first, wherever you are. When gun owners make mistakes and others get hurt, it is just purely shameful, not only to you, but also to those of us who make safety first! Please don’t give the rest of us a black eye with your own irresponsibility, thereby giving those silly anti-gun type people yet another excuse to further regulate (or even ban) guns!

That’s about all I have to say on the matter at present.

Gun Safe Buying Guide

If you own firearms, owning a gun safe is a must. Owning a gun safe is part of proper gun safety and is even more important if you have children. You probably came to this site knowing that you need a gun safe but maybe you aren’t quite sure about where to start. Here at you will find several in-depth reviews of the most popular and efficient gun safes on the market. We have also provided you with one of the best gun safe buyer’s guides so you can make sure you are equipped to ask all the right questions when finding a gun safe that’s right for you and your family. We are here to provide you with the best gun safe reviews, so you know how important it is to ask the right questions before making a sizeable investment to protect your family, your firearms, and your valuables.

What we provide: There are a lot of things to determine when buying a safe such as size, weight, capacity, anchoring ability and of course cost. Every size of safe has its benefits. If you don’t have a lot of money to buy your first safe, I would strongly encourage you to look at a biometric safe. They are smaller, easily accessible and extremely secure. If your first safe purchase is a larger Long Gun Safe, I would suggest an electronic lock for quick access if you plan to only own one safe. If you intend on owning more than one gun safe, then picking a dialing lock can be a better choice to keep the cost low while buying a biometric or electronic hand safe for immediate access to smaller firearms. I will cover all of the items you should be asking yourself in detail in my gun safe buyer’s guide so you know what questions to ask when looking at buying your own safe.


Biometric Gun Safes

Biometric safes are smaller hand safes that recognize your fingerprints to open the safe. The primary function of biometric safes is quick access and easy mobility. They should typically not be used for housing valuables, but rather firearms you will need the quickest access to. They are a great tool for firearm safety so you can keep your firearms away from your children. Due to being smaller in size, they can be victim to theft in the event of a burglary, so use caution when storing your valuables. Most biometric safes offer a combination of both fingerprint and sequential button coding so you can access the safe either way in case the fingerprint recognition stops for some reason. The nice part about the biometric safes is that they are probably not only one of the securest ways to store a firearm in a compact location, but they are also the easiest to access in the case of an emergency. They are usually compact and slimmer, making them the perfect bedside companion. They can usually hold one small firearm, which in my opinion should be equipped with a flashlight. Most small modern firearms have a tactical rail which will allow a flashlight attachment so you can easily see intruders during a potential evening encounter. Biometric hand safes are also great for a first safe if you are just a one gun household. Especially for the budget conscious, if you don’t plan on expanding your firearm collection, then this is a great pick.

Long-Gun Full Size Gun Safes

There are many reasons why you should be looking at buying a full size safe for your first safe purchase. I know that many people have smaller living quarters and can’t afford the cost and/or space it would require for a full size safe. If you are part of this crowd, I’d suggest looking at our Small Fireproof Safe Reviews, or our Biometric Safe Reviews. If you have enough closet space, and own at least one long-gun, I’d strongly recommend buying a full size safe for your first purchase. My first safe was technically a full size safe and I outgrew it in less than a year. The primary function of a large gun safe is to protect your firearms, valuable and most importantly, your family from unauthorized access. Having a good, solid full-size safe will not only ensure that your firearms are kept secure, but also prevent your firearms from falling into the wrong hands in the event of a robbery. Full size safes are typically constructed out of premium gauge steel and are extremely tough to move or break into. This makes them the most valuable resource for protecting the things that matter most to you and your family. I’ll cover more in my buyer’s guide – but the one thing I can tip I can give you that’s the most important is always buy a bigger safe than you plan to need so you can grow into it. Buying a second full-size safe in less than a year wasn’t part of our plan and luckily I was able to sell my other safe on craigslist before Amazon delivered my new one. Buy the right one the first time around and you won’t have to deal with any of the hassle of outgrowing your first safe too quickly.

Small Non-Biometric Hand Gun Safes (electronic locking)

Less technological than its’ biometric cousin, smaller electronic locking gun safes have their place. Smaller electronic locking safes are the same size as a biometric safe but are operated using a digital locking keypad instead of fingerprint recognition. They are typically cheaper than biometric gun safes, but will make it a little more difficult to grab your firearm in an emergency situation. Electronic locking gun safes are unlocked using an electronic key code combination. It should still perform just like a biometric gun safe when unlocking, you just need a code to open it which can be cumbersome in the dark if you are up against a late night encounter. The good thing about small electronic locking gun safes is that they are typically cheap, and have a lot of very good safe manufacturers that produce them. Personally, this is the type of safe I’d be using for a backup firearm that is not my primary use or carry gun, and I’d be using it in the places I spend the most time that aren’t my bedroom. A den, library, or home office, are all ideal places for a small electronic locking gun safe. This way you have access to a firearm in need, but probably don’t need the speed of a Biometric safe. You can usually expect to spend about half or a little less than half of what you would spend on a Biometric Safe for a small electronic locking gun safe.

Small Fireproof Safes

Small Fireproof safes are a great option for valuables and other items that you may not feel comfortable placing in a smaller safe. They also work well for handguns but since they are bigger than biometric or small electronic locking safes, you will need a bigger place to store it. Usually small fireproof safes will house about 3 cubic feet or less and have a decent fire rating. Keep in mind that the primary function of these safes is to protect against fire, not theft. Because of their small stature, Small Fireproof safes are much more likely to be stolen in the event of a burglary. They are good for protecting documents and even storing small firearms, but I would be cautious of storing large amounts of valuables in a smaller safe unless you can anchor it down. Small fireproof safes definitely have their place and if you are able to anchor them down, they are perfect for hand guns as well as valuables while being easily placed anywhere in the home due to coming in a more compact package than standard full size gun safes.

Now that you’ve read about some of the most popular gun safe types and models, I want to make sure I’ve highlighted some of the main reasons that you absolutely need to have a gun safe. If you haven’t fully committed to buying a safe as of yet and are still on the fence, please consider the following reasons why owning a gun safe is a must.

Child Safety: According to a recent study, Guns kill twice as many children as cancer, and 5 times more than heart disease. This in itself is more than enough reason to own a safe to properly secure your firearms. You may not have children, but that doesn’t mean your family, or neighboring children won’t have access to your firearms if they visit your home. Protecting America’s youth from firearm accidents starts with you being a responsible gun owner.

Theft Protection: While not quite as important as child safety, a good sturdy gun safe will protect your firearms against theft. Many people put other valuables in their gun safes along with their firearms. If you plan to place money, gold, silver and/or important documents into your safe, I would highly recommend purchasing a safe that’s very heavy or can be bolted down. Even if you do not plan to store other valuables in your safe, bolting your safe down should always be considered unless you have a post-tension slab which will not allow you to do so. Bolting your safe down or buying a heavier safe will save you money in the long run by protecting you against theft in the event of a robbery.

Liability Protection: Depending on your state laws, if your firearms are stolen, you may face liability from a legal standpoint. Owning a gun safe in states that hold you accountable is an absolute must. Owning a firearm is your constitutional right, but it’s also your job to make sure they are properly secured.

Fire Protection: Many of today’s safes have fire protection or fire ratings. This not only will help keep your firearms safe in the event of a catastrophic fire, but also any other valuables that you might own that you want to keep secure. House fires have grown at an alarming rate and having a safe that adequately protects against disaster is a good idea.

Cheaper Insurance Rates: In some states, legislation is being reviewed to propose that firearms owners will need to carry liability protection to insure against the potential firearms accidents. Whether or not this passes will be the subject of a lot of scrutiny. That being said, it’s more than likely that you will qualify for cheaper insurance rates if you have appropriate firearm security in your home. Why risk being caught needing a more expensive policy when you can insure against higher rates and properly protect all those around you? Owning a gun safe here is a win-win situation. There’s also a possibility that your actual homeowners insurance carrier may offer a discount for owning a safe.

Now that you’ve had a chance to look at and read our long-gun gun safe reviews and comparison guide, you should be equipped with all the information you need to make a purchase. In my opinion, safes are not a one-size-fits-all type of situation. Everyone has different needs and different requirements. In my opinion it’s also important to have a larger main safe and an ideal a secondary backup safes used for your bedside, office or in any other place you’d need to have quick access to a firearm. I personally own both a long gun safe and a biometric hand safe and feel a biometric gun safe is a great option for quick access and convenience. While there are many places you can put a smaller gun safe, I was able to mount my biometric gun safe behind my headboard and now with a swipe of my hand, I have access to my firearm on demand. Ultimately on only you can decide what safe is going to best fit your needs, but now that you’ve spent some time with us, you have all the information you need to make an educated decision.

Thanks for taking the time to check out our site. If you have any questions at all or would like to see another safe reviewed that we haven’t included, please feel free to reach out to us at any time on our Contact Page. Make sure you stop and take a look at our Safe Buyer’s Guide for important questions to ask before making your purchase if you haven’t already answered all your questions by reading through our reviews.