Question for GLOCK Owners

Anyone Ever Had One of Your Assembly Pins Come Partially Out at the Range?


Here’s what happened, in order:

  1. Purchased a 21lb recoil spring for my Gen 4 GLOCK 27 (if you don’t know already, that’s a .40 S&W)
  2. While waiting on order, sent e-mail to support to ask them if it was ok to use with factory ammo
  3. Receive spring in mail & install it (on package the spring was in, it simply said that it was to reduce recoil, and didn’t say anything at all about what sort of ammo to use with such a spring).
  4. Receive eMail from Glockstore support saying that it was intended for +P ammo, and that I might get some “stove pipe jams” using “regular” factory ammo. No mention of any other possible issues.
  5. Went to range. Fired about 120 rounds.
  6. Came home, happy that it had worked well with factory ammo. Recoil/muzzle jump reduced & accuracy improved a good bit.
  7. Field stripped the pistol to clean it, and discovered my rear (through the grips) assembly pin was halfway out
  8. Pushed pin back in with my thumb
  9. Put my +P self-defense ammo magazine back in & re-holsterd for concealed carry, & haven’t shot it since.

Now, I have sent the Glockstore an email asking if that spring could have attributed to the pin coming partially out, and told them I was extremely glad it didn’t come totally out while I was shooting. Sent that mail this morning and an awaiting a reply.

Meanwhile, I’ve ordered some stainless steel replacement assembly pins, and a Glock armorer’s tool (& a 3.5 lb trigger connector).

Now I’ve been considering that pin coming partially out a good bit. Doesn’t make sense to me at all. I don’t care if the recoil spring was 31 lbs, that should NOT have happened in my opinion. The very worst thing that should’ve happened would be a “stove pipe jam” from the slide not cycling rearward far enough to allow for proper case ejection. There is no way that I can think of to justify my pin coming half out. It just DOES NOT MAKE SENSE TO ME!

So, anyone ever had anything similar happen? If so, did you determine why?

If you haven’t ever had a pin come partially out during a shooting session, given the above info, do you have any speculations as to why MINE did?

It just couldn’t be internal pressure from factory ammo that did it. The spring would merely compensate for increased pressure. NO excessive pressure should have been put upon the grip area, especially by factory ammo, UNLESS the slide was cycling rearward too hard and in turn hitting the rear of the pistol wayyy too hard on the forward motion. However, if it had been doing that, then certainly I would have gotten a jam because the slide would have cycled forward so dang fast that a casing would have not properly ejected. Also, forward slide pressure against the frame on the return stroke seems like it would do nothing causing a lateral motion necessary for the pin to slide out at all. Actually, to me it seems like it would just draw the pin into the frame harder, rather than loosening anything up.

ANY IDEAS ON THIS WHOLE PIN ISSUE??? If it happened to you, what would you do? Think my pistol is FUBAR?

I suppose I’ll contact my armorer and ask them for the time being, but I just can’t imagine they’ll say anything more than to put the factory spring back in, which I do NOT want to do. I bought the dang thing to reduce recoil, and it does so even with factory ammo which was still properly extracted. See, I only have my 2nd, 3rd, little finger & thumb on my shooting hand. I lost my index finger & metacarpal due to a severe thermal burn when I was working on an ejection seat in the USAF…which is a lot of the reason why I NEED to reduce recoil. I can get a good grip on the pistol, even one handed, but after 100+ rounds, the ‘regular’ recoil starts to wear on my hand to the extent that the hand slides upward on the rear of the frame (slightly above the “beavertail” and I sometimes get just a little slide burn on the web space between my (now) first finger & thumb…hence my intense desire to reduce recoil.

Does anyone think there might be a manufacturing defect in my pistol? Would you call GLOCK? I may. I just don’t friggin like the idea of taking a chance on my pistol coming apart on me while firing a round. That just could not possibly be a good thing!!!! I mean, I don’t think it would “blow up” in my hand — heck, with the other two pins still in, I doubt much of anything would happen — but regardless, a pin coming part way out during a range session is definitely an issue as I see it.

I’ll take whatever input anyone may have on this. Be sure to consider the facts I’ve given and run the logic on the concept, but comment away if you would? 😀


Also check: A Poor Parts Combo for The Glock 27

A Poor Parts Combo for The Glock 27

Okies a, I’ve been changing parts and stuff on my G27 again.  This time I put in a 3.5lb connector (trigger connector for those who may not understand what I’m saying).

Thing is, the last part change was from the stock to a 21lb recoil spring, wherein I was warned about jams with that sort of spring with “regular” (meaning not +P) ammo, which didn’t happen initially.

So, last night I installed a “Ghost Rocket Connector, 3.5lbs” for my trigger pull weight to be 3.5lbs.

Took it to the range today to check it out.


I noticed two things.

The first prominent issue was that I couldn’t fire at a rate higher than about a round per second without a jam.

The second thing I noticed (or didn’t notice), was that there was no felt change in the trigger pull, crispness, or reset.

Now, I blame the jams on two things.

One, the heavy recoil spring with factory ammo, as I was warned about by the

Two, I had put a reasonable (but not too heavy) amount of Brownell’s Action Lube on my slide rails and ALL moving parts of my pistol.  So, whereas last time I fired, the slide was not cycling as quickly, hence no jams, even with the heavier spring, but this time, with the heavier spring still installed, and the ability to squeeze the trigger more quickly due to the connector change, I believe that the slide was just cycling back too fast to grab & feed the cartridges.

My solution is this:

At the range, I will continue to use the lighter trigger connector, but will use the factory recoil spring.

When carrying my +P ammo, I will use the heavier recoil spring.  HOWEVER, I DO need to get some more Zombie Max rounds and test them rapid fire with the heavy spring and with the factory spring to compare.  I’m pretty certain that the +P ammo will function fine in the pistol the way it is….but next time I shoot factory ammo at the range, I WILL put in the factory recoil spring (unless I decide on a less heavy one that is still  heavier than “factory”).

This is why we test fire after changing parts!  We MUST be certain our firearm is working at tip-top shape if we are to rely on it to protect our lives or the lives of those we love!!!

Peace Ya All

Common sense gun safety


There are entirely too many accidents involving firearms in our country. I recently saw where a guy shot his step-son in his home because he thought he was an intruder. That was a very stupid, irresponsible mistake!


If you can’t positively identify your target, then do NOT pull that trigger!

The first and most important rule of gun handling is to not point your firearm, handgun or otherwise, at anything you do not want to kill or completely destroy. Pretty much common sense, but so many people get into bad habits…

Another rule that is often broken and causes accidents is having live ammo in the area when you are cleaning your firearm. This is NOT a safe practice.

I frequently see news stories about people being accidentally shot, sometimes fatally, in their own homes by an accidental discharge. I prefer to call these “foolish” discharges, because someone has to make a foolish mistake for this to happen. Any gun owner can make these mistakes. Not acceptable. See above….if you aren’t intentionally going to kill or destroy something or someone, then please don’t point your gun at it/them!

As for children’s’ deaths by firearms accidents, it is usually a result of someone not positively securing their firearms where children cannot access them, and further, storing loaded guns, or storing ammo in the same place as the LOCKED UP guns.

When your child is starting to crawl and get into stuff, you put “child safety devices” throughout your home (hopefully). But then when they are older and curious about different sorts of things, you don’t lock your guns up, separate from the ammo, where that curious child can get to them??? Does that make sense??

Keep ALL guns and ammo out of the reach of children, and by children, I mean people in your home under age 21, who have no safe firearms handling training. As a matter of fact, even if they are adults, keep your guns locked up anyway. If you permit them to have a gun in your home, then require the same from them.

Personally, although my son is an armed guard, my pistol stays on my side, or in a vault to which only I have the combination. It is not a matter of trust — it is a matter of common sense safety. Please take responsibility and properly store your guns and ammo…

Let’s move on a little bit and talk about range safety. When you are at a firing range, there should be a person called the “Rangemaster”. Follow his or her instructions to the letter. Before you start shoring on said range, be sure you have read all the range rules, and KNOW them.

Keep your gun pointed down range at all times, no exceptions, loading/unloading/firing/changing targets/whatever.

When you are going down range during a “cease fire”, ensure your gun is unloaded and the bolt or slide or other mechanism is out of battery. Proceed down range ONLY when a cease fire has been called. When you return, stand behind the firing line until cleared by the range master that the range is again live.

When you are finished with your session, unload your gun, take it out of battery, and put it in its case. If you need to get your target, wait for the next cease fire to do so, and follow the previous instructions.

Procedures at different ranges may vary, and this is just a basic guide. Be sure you know the specific safety procedures and rules for the range at which you are shooting.

If by chance you have the ability to shoot on private land, be sure you fire in a safe direction, taking your gun’s range capability and other pertinent factors into consideration.
Shoot at a backstop of some sort.
Be sure there are no other people in the area.
Be extra careful!

Again, all of these are general guidelines that may vary slightly from place to place.

Just please make safety first, wherever you are. When gun owners make mistakes and others get hurt, it is just purely shameful, not only to you, but also to those of us who make safety first! Please don’t give the rest of us a black eye with your own irresponsibility, thereby giving those silly anti-gun type people yet another excuse to further regulate (or even ban) guns!

That’s about all I have to say on the matter at present.

Gun Safe Buying Guide

If you own firearms, owning a gun safe is a must. Owning a gun safe is part of proper gun safety and is even more important if you have children. You probably came to this site knowing that you need a gun safe but maybe you aren’t quite sure about where to start. Here at you will find several in-depth reviews of the most popular and efficient gun safes on the market. We have also provided you with one of the best gun safe buyer’s guides so you can make sure you are equipped to ask all the right questions when finding a gun safe that’s right for you and your family. We are here to provide you with the best gun safe reviews, so you know how important it is to ask the right questions before making a sizeable investment to protect your family, your firearms, and your valuables.

What we provide: There are a lot of things to determine when buying a safe such as size, weight, capacity, anchoring ability and of course cost. Every size of safe has its benefits. If you don’t have a lot of money to buy your first safe, I would strongly encourage you to look at a biometric safe. They are smaller, easily accessible and extremely secure. If your first safe purchase is a larger Long Gun Safe, I would suggest an electronic lock for quick access if you plan to only own one safe. If you intend on owning more than one gun safe, then picking a dialing lock can be a better choice to keep the cost low while buying a biometric or electronic hand safe for immediate access to smaller firearms. I will cover all of the items you should be asking yourself in detail in my gun safe buyer’s guide so you know what questions to ask when looking at buying your own safe.


Biometric Gun Safes

Biometric safes are smaller hand safes that recognize your fingerprints to open the safe. The primary function of biometric safes is quick access and easy mobility. They should typically not be used for housing valuables, but rather firearms you will need the quickest access to. They are a great tool for firearm safety so you can keep your firearms away from your children. Due to being smaller in size, they can be victim to theft in the event of a burglary, so use caution when storing your valuables. Most biometric safes offer a combination of both fingerprint and sequential button coding so you can access the safe either way in case the fingerprint recognition stops for some reason. The nice part about the biometric safes is that they are probably not only one of the securest ways to store a firearm in a compact location, but they are also the easiest to access in the case of an emergency. They are usually compact and slimmer, making them the perfect bedside companion. They can usually hold one small firearm, which in my opinion should be equipped with a flashlight. Most small modern firearms have a tactical rail which will allow a flashlight attachment so you can easily see intruders during a potential evening encounter. Biometric hand safes are also great for a first safe if you are just a one gun household. Especially for the budget conscious, if you don’t plan on expanding your firearm collection, then this is a great pick.

Long-Gun Full Size Gun Safes

There are many reasons why you should be looking at buying a full size safe for your first safe purchase. I know that many people have smaller living quarters and can’t afford the cost and/or space it would require for a full size safe. If you are part of this crowd, I’d suggest looking at our Small Fireproof Safe Reviews, or our Biometric Safe Reviews. If you have enough closet space, and own at least one long-gun, I’d strongly recommend buying a full size safe for your first purchase. My first safe was technically a full size safe and I outgrew it in less than a year. The primary function of a large gun safe is to protect your firearms, valuable and most importantly, your family from unauthorized access. Having a good, solid full-size safe will not only ensure that your firearms are kept secure, but also prevent your firearms from falling into the wrong hands in the event of a robbery. Full size safes are typically constructed out of premium gauge steel and are extremely tough to move or break into. This makes them the most valuable resource for protecting the things that matter most to you and your family. I’ll cover more in my buyer’s guide – but the one thing I can tip I can give you that’s the most important is always buy a bigger safe than you plan to need so you can grow into it. Buying a second full-size safe in less than a year wasn’t part of our plan and luckily I was able to sell my other safe on craigslist before Amazon delivered my new one. Buy the right one the first time around and you won’t have to deal with any of the hassle of outgrowing your first safe too quickly.

Small Non-Biometric Hand Gun Safes (electronic locking)

Less technological than its’ biometric cousin, smaller electronic locking gun safes have their place. Smaller electronic locking safes are the same size as a biometric safe but are operated using a digital locking keypad instead of fingerprint recognition. They are typically cheaper than biometric gun safes, but will make it a little more difficult to grab your firearm in an emergency situation. Electronic locking gun safes are unlocked using an electronic key code combination. It should still perform just like a biometric gun safe when unlocking, you just need a code to open it which can be cumbersome in the dark if you are up against a late night encounter. The good thing about small electronic locking gun safes is that they are typically cheap, and have a lot of very good safe manufacturers that produce them. Personally, this is the type of safe I’d be using for a backup firearm that is not my primary use or carry gun, and I’d be using it in the places I spend the most time that aren’t my bedroom. A den, library, or home office, are all ideal places for a small electronic locking gun safe. This way you have access to a firearm in need, but probably don’t need the speed of a Biometric safe. You can usually expect to spend about half or a little less than half of what you would spend on a Biometric Safe for a small electronic locking gun safe.

Small Fireproof Safes

Small Fireproof safes are a great option for valuables and other items that you may not feel comfortable placing in a smaller safe. They also work well for handguns but since they are bigger than biometric or small electronic locking safes, you will need a bigger place to store it. Usually small fireproof safes will house about 3 cubic feet or less and have a decent fire rating. Keep in mind that the primary function of these safes is to protect against fire, not theft. Because of their small stature, Small Fireproof safes are much more likely to be stolen in the event of a burglary. They are good for protecting documents and even storing small firearms, but I would be cautious of storing large amounts of valuables in a smaller safe unless you can anchor it down. Small fireproof safes definitely have their place and if you are able to anchor them down, they are perfect for hand guns as well as valuables while being easily placed anywhere in the home due to coming in a more compact package than standard full size gun safes.

Now that you’ve read about some of the most popular gun safe types and models, I want to make sure I’ve highlighted some of the main reasons that you absolutely need to have a gun safe. If you haven’t fully committed to buying a safe as of yet and are still on the fence, please consider the following reasons why owning a gun safe is a must.

Child Safety: According to a recent study, Guns kill twice as many children as cancer, and 5 times more than heart disease. This in itself is more than enough reason to own a safe to properly secure your firearms. You may not have children, but that doesn’t mean your family, or neighboring children won’t have access to your firearms if they visit your home. Protecting America’s youth from firearm accidents starts with you being a responsible gun owner.

Theft Protection: While not quite as important as child safety, a good sturdy gun safe will protect your firearms against theft. Many people put other valuables in their gun safes along with their firearms. If you plan to place money, gold, silver and/or important documents into your safe, I would highly recommend purchasing a safe that’s very heavy or can be bolted down. Even if you do not plan to store other valuables in your safe, bolting your safe down should always be considered unless you have a post-tension slab which will not allow you to do so. Bolting your safe down or buying a heavier safe will save you money in the long run by protecting you against theft in the event of a robbery.

Liability Protection: Depending on your state laws, if your firearms are stolen, you may face liability from a legal standpoint. Owning a gun safe in states that hold you accountable is an absolute must. Owning a firearm is your constitutional right, but it’s also your job to make sure they are properly secured.

Fire Protection: Many of today’s safes have fire protection or fire ratings. This not only will help keep your firearms safe in the event of a catastrophic fire, but also any other valuables that you might own that you want to keep secure. House fires have grown at an alarming rate and having a safe that adequately protects against disaster is a good idea.

Cheaper Insurance Rates: In some states, legislation is being reviewed to propose that firearms owners will need to carry liability protection to insure against the potential firearms accidents. Whether or not this passes will be the subject of a lot of scrutiny. That being said, it’s more than likely that you will qualify for cheaper insurance rates if you have appropriate firearm security in your home. Why risk being caught needing a more expensive policy when you can insure against higher rates and properly protect all those around you? Owning a gun safe here is a win-win situation. There’s also a possibility that your actual homeowners insurance carrier may offer a discount for owning a safe.

Now that you’ve had a chance to look at and read our long-gun gun safe reviews and comparison guide, you should be equipped with all the information you need to make a purchase. In my opinion, safes are not a one-size-fits-all type of situation. Everyone has different needs and different requirements. In my opinion it’s also important to have a larger main safe and an ideal a secondary backup safes used for your bedside, office or in any other place you’d need to have quick access to a firearm. I personally own both a long gun safe and a biometric hand safe and feel a biometric gun safe is a great option for quick access and convenience. While there are many places you can put a smaller gun safe, I was able to mount my biometric gun safe behind my headboard and now with a swipe of my hand, I have access to my firearm on demand. Ultimately on only you can decide what safe is going to best fit your needs, but now that you’ve spent some time with us, you have all the information you need to make an educated decision.

Thanks for taking the time to check out our site. If you have any questions at all or would like to see another safe reviewed that we haven’t included, please feel free to reach out to us at any time on our Contact Page. Make sure you stop and take a look at our Safe Buyer’s Guide for important questions to ask before making your purchase if you haven’t already answered all your questions by reading through our reviews.

How to choose your rifle scope for shooting and hunting?

Choosing a rifle scope or a red dot may seem complicated at first glance, especially given the very wide range of optical manufacturers. In this article we will help you choose the right glasses for the use you want to make of them.

We will therefore distinguish four different uses: Shooting between 50 and 300m, shooting between 300 and 1000m, Beating, stalking and approach hunting.

As usual we will bring you tips for shooting while presenting you with quality equipment.

Scope for sport shooting from 50 to 300m

This situation concerns almost all sports shooters in France.

The good news here is that you don’t have to spend a fortune on a scope to have good gear . The saying that puts a price as high in the scope as in the rifle is completely false and is only advanced by gunsmiths who have an interest in selling high-yield products or by those who do not know. nothing. A Tikka t3 is worth between 1300 and 1600 euros on average, fitting a telescope at the same price is totally absurd.

To put it simply, the only element to take into consideration for shots between 50m and 300m is the scope’s ability to withstand many shots. The brightness and the image quality are not important criteria at this distance, the multilayer treatment of all surfaces of the lenses is more than sufficient in terms of light input, so do not focus on the lens diameter or the type of glass and its manufacturing methods. A diameter of 40mm will do perfectly well, a larger diameter greater than 44mm will be more expensive and uninteresting.

On the zoom side, a magnification of x10 is more than sufficient even for a target located at 300m . Be aware that Marines snipers use fixed x10 magnification scopes to engage targets up to 1000m . They have been fitted with the SWFA SS fixed magnification 10x42mm telescope since 1993 (unfortunately not available in France). The SWFA SS is only worth $ 300, the USMC certainly did not choose it for lack of means, it is simply a rustic and reliable American product. So a high zoom greater than x16 will not bring you anything more and will be much more expensive.

The savings in zoom and lens diameter therefore allow you to choose more robust and reliable glasses . Indeed you can get a 4-12x40mm bezel resistant to magnum calibers while at the same price, a 4-16x56mm bezel will not offer you resistance to magnum calibers. Even if you don’t use a magnum caliber, this will allow your scope to withstand a lot of shots. A telescope that can no longer keep its zero is good to throw away .

Another element that can tip the scales is the existence of long-term guarantees . In these times of planned obsolescence, it is a reliable indicator of quality. Bushnell offers a 30 year warranty on most of its scopes and Vortex offers a lifetime warranty on all of its riflescopes.

We have selected for you two glasses from the Bushnell brand which offers the best glasses in this range and specifications. The American firm Bushnell has finally established itself in the shooting glasses market thanks to these entry and mid-range models at very good value for money and adapted to the expectations of shooters. For my part, I have a particular attachment to this brand because my very first telescope was a Bushnell (bought € 350 at the time) and after years and several hundred shots at 270win and 308win, my zero has never moved. .

So we present to you the Trophy 4-12x40mm, the Engage 2.5-10x44mm and the Engage 3-12x42mm.


Bushnell Trophy 4-12x40mm & 3-9x40mm: Reliability and robustness at a low price

The Bushnell Trophy is a perfect scope for novice shooters using calibers from 22lr to 308win included. However, it will not be suitable for magnum calibers. This telescope is already exceptional for its price and it would be inflated to ask it to hold large calibers!

The elevation and windage adjustment turrets are located under screw caps and can be adjusted by hand A parallax adjustment ring is also present. Finally, the Bushnell Trophy is waterproof, anti-fog and shockproof.

The only thing one could blame it for is its lack of a cue mechanism to “lock” the zero. The more high-end scopes allow you to unscrew the turret in order to replace the zero of this one so as to make coincide the adjustment which you obtained after shots for example at 100m, you thus know that when your turret displays 0, your scope is set to hit the center of the target at 100m. In the absence of this function you will therefore have to note somewhere the setting corresponds to your zero at 100m.

The absence of this feature will not be a problem for the practice of shooting between 100 and 300m. It is indeed useful for longer distances where the number of correction clicks is important. From 100m to 300m you will hardly need more than twenty clicks to perform depending of course on the bullet drop which varies from one caliber to another and from one ammunition to another. For my part from 100m to 300m at 308win with 147gr ammunition, I have to make a correction of 5.5 MOA or 22 clicks on my turrets in 1/4 MOA.

It is truly the glasses that we recommend with eyes closed to all beginners .


Bushnell Engage 2.5-10x44mm and 3-12x42mm: User comfort and robustness

Here are two Bushnell riflescopes from the Engage series. They are designed to withstand all calibers, even magnums.

In addition to their more robust construction than the Trophy, they have additional features. They have on the one hand exterior turrets equipped with a zeroing system as discussed above. Here the very big advantage of the Engage series compared to its competitors is that this zero locking mechanism is done by hand by simply unscrewing the upper part of the turret . In fact, in a large majority of these zero locking systems, the top of the turret can only be unscrewed with very small tools such as allen wrenches and the first unscrewing is often laborious. The problem you will understand is that there is a risk of damaging the screw heads and ending up with an unusable zero locking.

The second very big advantage of the Engage series at Bushnell is the 30 year warranty . We are very far from the 2 years imposed by law that other manufacturers apply with reluctance. This type of guarantee is not a bogus marketing argument, the best brands of optical equipment end up offering it when their know-how and the manufacturing quality that they acquire over time allow them to offer reliable equipment. Bushnell France’s after-sales service is also very well known in terms of speed and satisfaction. Of course, the warranty concerns hidden defects and not abnormal wear or damage caused by the user.

these two Engages also have a MOA-1 reticle, these marks in MOA are useful in particular for hunting and firing at longer distance where you manage to perceive the place of impact of the projectile. This makes it possible, in the event of a poor estimate of the distance, to quickly chain a second shot using the reference points, or to allow a correction via the turrets. For example you actually shot at 500m thinking you were shooting closer and noticed that your shot was 3 notches (3MOA) lower on your reticle. You can therefore withdraw by taking the 3rd notch as a center where you saw your bullet drop, or correct your elevation turret by about 12 clicks if it is in quarter MOA (1 MOA is worth 5 times 2.9 cm at 500m or 14.5 We have 3MAO to correct depending on the reticle, therefore 43.5cm to fill.

Be careful, however, because this is a second focal plane telescope, i.e. the reticle is placed in the telescope before zooming, so it will remain unchanged in size regardless of the zoom applied. The guides should be used at the zoom intended by the manufacturer where they coincide. For this type of telescope, the marks are designed to be used either at x10 or at maximum zoom.

The MOA reticle also allows you to calculate the distance to your target if you know its size through a simple calculation of trigonometry. This can be especially useful if you are hunting at long distances and know the average size of the game you are hunting. The other solution is to get a laser rangefinder but they are not free unlike the MOA reticle that comes with your scope. In addition, the laser of the range finder can be bent and moved from the point that you aim in particular because of the mirages and give you a false measurement.

Finally, these two glasses feature the patented Bushnell Exo Barrier Protection technology which protects the lenses from external aggressions that could dirty or scratch them such as oil or sand. They are obviously waterproof and the glasses are hydrophobic.

They will allow you to be comfortable for shots from at least 600 to 700 meters.

The 2.5-10x44mm version is around € 450 and the 3-12x42mm version is around € 500.

Scope for sport shooting from 300m to 1000m

We have seen previously that a x10 zoom is more than enough to reach targets up to 700 meters. However, some can shoot at greater distances or simply wish for reasons of vision problems and eye fatigue to benefit from a magnification making them more comfortable. You can refer to the photos of reticles according to the zooms to get an idea of ​​the rendering (located at the beginning of the article).

Thus a magnification up to x16 will bring a little more comfort of aiming. Remember that zooming necessarily increases the price of the scope . For the same price a high magnification scope cannot be of the same quality as a lower magnification scope. Its build quality will be inferior and potentially have less functionality.

If you plan to shoot targets up to 1000 meters then we advise you to bring a rifle scope with a maximum zoom between 14 and 16. The quality of the glass can also be appreciable without being absolutely compulsory, in particular that of glasses with ED mention (Extra low dispersion, we talk about it in more detail in our spotting scopes article). They thus allow more sharpness and protect against chromatic aberrations .

We will not expand on the subject because this article is primarily intended for beginners who are interested in the practice of long distance shooting. Learning is long and difficult and you will all have time to experiment with riflescopes and discover your preferences. So a zoom scope between x14 and x16, possibly with ED lenses, is a good start to get started in long distance shooting.

For this we offer two glasses, the Engage version in x16 version and the Vortex Viper PST Gen II.


Bushnell Engage 4-16x44mm

This Engage is of the same caliber as these little sisters in x10 and x12 zoom but brings a maximum zoom of x16 . It is therefore slightly more expensive at a little less than 100 euros. Its functionality, features and accessories are the same, so it offers more zoom for a reasonable price increase. Its warranty is also 30 years .

It is priced around 600 €.


Vortex Viper PST Gen II 3-15x44mm

Here is the Viper PST Gen II, a rifle scope between the mid and high range. It also exists in a 5-25x50mm version for an additional hundred euros but we recommend it to people with sight problems or eye fatigue.

It stands out on the Engage series thanks firstly to its ED (Extra low dispersion) lenses which increase the sharpness of the rendering and reduce the effects of chromatic aberrations. Another interesting element is its surface treatments of XR and ArmorTek lenses (patented) . They provide maximum brightness while protecting the lenses from dirt and scratches.

Like the Engage series, this goggle is waterproof, hydrophobic, anti-fog and shockproof.

Its reticle exists in EBR-4, EBR-2C and EBR-4C, so it has marks in MOA or MRAD and will allow several uses as explained above. Furthermore, this reticle is illuminated and facilitates its use, in particular for hunting .

Unfortunately unlike the Engage its zero locking mechanism can only be done with an allen key In truth, you don’t change your zero every day, but this kind of comfort is always appreciable, especially when you forget your Allen key at home.

Vortex is a safe bet and also offers a lifetime warranty on its shooting glasses. It is priced around 900 €. For more technical information on This rifle scope you can refer to our article dedicated to the Viper PST .

1000m shooting for only $ 500

Here’s an illustrative video of what to expect from qualified entry-level hardware. There is an American practice of reaching 1000 yards with the cheapest configuration possible. In this video, an amateur shooter hits the center of his target at 1000yards or 914 meters with a configuration at 500 dollars: A stevens 200 in 308win from savage (200dollars) and a 4-14x44mm scope from Primary Arms with a value of 279 dollars which would sell for around 400 € in France. The shots in the first part of the video were made entirely with manufactured ammunition. The saying “telescope price = gun price” is true here, but not in the sense usually given to it in France …


Riflescope for stalking and approach hunting

Both stalking and approach hunting are individual hunting which can be practiced around dawn and dusk. These are therefore times of the day when the light is low . You can therefore forget the glasses with small lens diameter since they will be difficult to use in these conditions. We prefer lens diameters between 44mm and 56mm.

Brightness and twilight factor

In terms of brightness, we don’t just look at the lens size. The twilight factor sometimes given in the technical description by the manufacturer must be determined . The twilight factor is obtained by multiplying the maximum zoom by the objective diameter, then by the square root of the product. For example a telescope with a maximum zoom of 10 and a diameter of 50mm will have a twilight factor of 22.3. The higher this number, the greater the brightness of the bezel will be when you are in low light conditions.

It is also necessary to look at the quality of the treatment of the glasses, this criterion is as important as the twilight factor. Indeed the treatment of the glasses makes it possible to eliminate the natural effect of reflection of the light by the glass. Low-end glasses have poor treatment, even if the twilight factor is high, the result will be poor.

Mounting height and precision

The objective diameter will potentially change your shooting position . Indeed a large diameter of objective can oblige you according to the base and the thunder of the barrel to use “high” mounting collars (it is often the case). When a configuration uses high collars the chin moves away from the butt of the rifle. It can be annoying for medium and long range shots while sitting or lying down. Indeed, the contraction of the muscles of the back and the neck to keep you in front of the glasses will create parasitic movements and tremors will tire you and will necessarily affect your point of impact.

When we speak of the use of the cheek piece while sitting or lying down we mean full support of the head on the cheek piece. Many shooters ignore this, but where the cheek rest is most effective is when you fully rest the weight of your head on it.Indeed this provides two important advantages. First, the position becomes much more comfortable and can be maintained for a longer time. Secondly, the muscles of the neck and back are no longer used to maintain the position, this leads to the suppression of all parasitic movements. Finally, know that a cheek piece is all the more effective when it is associated with a support located under the butt, such as a sandbag. Cheek rest, sandbag, torso and shoulders thus form a guide for the recoil of the weapon which will allow an always identical and constant recoil trajectory between shots and therefore increased precision.

Take the test yourself , try it with and without a cheek piece / sandbag. This is even true when using a bipod or bag as a front mount, zero your scope using a bag as a front mount and then try a few shots with bipods as a front mount. You will notice that the groupings will be different, the only thing having changed being your firing position and therefore the recoil trajectory as well as the vibratory harmony of the rifle. The key word in shooting is the consistency of the parameters.

The distance from your chin to the butt will be increased even more if you use a rifle designed for standing fire (the butt is lower than the barrel line). The solution is to equip yourself with a cheek piece to bridge the distance and allow you to use the stock for precise shots. A bandolier cheek rest will do just fine. Sometimes the distance is such that a cheek piece is not enough and it is better to use glasses with smaller lens diameters like 44mm and 50mm instead of 56mm.

The beginning of a solution exists and consists in taking glasses with 30mm tubes instead of 25mm to raise the output objective which would interfere with the base (the Engage and the Viper have 30mm tubes). In fact, the intermediate distance between “high” and “medium” collars can sometimes be high and vary depending on the manufacturer. So a 30mm tube raises the scope by 2.5mm compared to a 25mm tube, but sometimes this is the distance just necessary so that the lens no longer touches the base or the thunder of the barrel. If you want to focus on the lowest possible mounting for lying or sitting shooting, equip yourself with a caliper and check your measurements carefully before purchasing your collars.

In all cases, a cheek piece is a very useful accessory because in addition to the aiming aid it provides when sitting and lying down, it allows faster and more stable playing when standing . The cheek piece is therefore in our opinion an essential element for shooting and hunting, especially for beginners.

Mounting height VS Brightness

If the height of your assembly is for you a more important criterion than the brightness we all simply recommend The Bushnell Engage 2.5-10x44mm presented above .

If brightness is your main criteria, then we offer you these three scopes: the Vortex Crossfire II 3-12x56mm, the Bushnell Prime 6-18x50mm and the Bushnell Forge 3-18x50mm. The Vortex Viper PST Gen II which we have already talked about is also an excellent choice because its twilight factor is 25.6 and its multilayer treatment is superior since it is the patented Vortex XR treatment which only equips the best glasses of this Mark.


Vortex Crossfire II 3-12x56mm

We chose the Vortex Crossfire II over another for its excellent value for money. Just like the other Vortex models, it is guaranteed for life . You will find more details on the Crossfire II in our dedicated article .

Its price is particularly interesting because Vortex has chosen to reduce the costs of the functionalities to preserve the quality of the lenses, in particular the multilayer treatment and add a more expensive 56mm lens. Indeed it is equipped with turrets with unscrewable caps as well as an adjustable parallax at the level of the objective (rather than lateral) . These two elements are less expensive to manufacture and thus make it possible to produce an affordable telescope with a large lens, with a good surface treatment and resistant to magnum calibers.

Of course, it remains waterproof, anti-shock and anti-fog.

It will therefore be perfect for hunting on approach and on the lookout in low light conditions. It can be found at prices around 350 €.


Bushnell Prime 6-18x50mm

The Bushnell Prime Series riflescopes are specifically designed for low light hunting . Bushnell’s goal with the Prime series is to offer quality hunting scopes at a reasonable price, they are of the same level of range as the Engage series designed for sport shooting. Its x18 zoom may be of interest to hunters who no longer have the same view of their youth.

Like the Engage, it has a lateral parallax adjustment. Its elevation turret is exterior, its drift turret is hooded .

The Prime series is also guaranteed for 30 years.

Its treatment of multilayer glasses of good quality added to a twilight factor of 30 provide excellent luminosity.

It is obviously waterproof. Its lenses are anti-fog, anti-scratch, anti-fouling and hydrophobic thanks to the patented Bushnell EXO Barrier Protection technology .

It can be found at prices around € 400.


Bushnell Forge 3-18x50mm

This is the glasses to choose when looking for the best in terms of brightness and comfort of use.

In terms of accessories and functions, it offers everything one would expect from a rifle scope of this range. The turrets are both exterior and have a zero locking mechanism. The parallax adjustment is lateral. Its zoom is even equipped with a lever so that it can be used quickly and precisely without taking your eyes off the game.

Like the Prime, it is waterproof and shockproof. It also has the patented EXO Barrier Protection treatment making it hydrophobic, anti-fog, anti-scratch and anti-dirt.

Finally the marks of its reticle are in MOA and therefore allow the calculation of distances as well as the compensation of shots in elevation and drift.

It has the same twilight factor as the Prime (30) but its surface treatment is of superior quality (Ultra-Wide Band Coating). It will offer the hunter on the lookout and approaching optimal light.

This high-end glasses is obviously guaranteed for 30 years. It is sold at prices around 1000 €.

Red dot for driven hunting

When it comes to beaten hunting we do not recommend classic shooting glasses or even supposedly made for beaten glasses.

Firstly, battue shooting is a shooting which must be carried out quickly , the aiming on a sighting device must be fast and a telescope necessarily has an eye relief distance to be respected. Even if you have a cheek rest, you will necessarily have to adjust the position of your eye and you will potentially lose precious seconds.

The second problem with a classic or “special beaten” rifle scope is the reduced field of view. The “special beaten” glasses have a very slightly increased field of vision compared to conventional glasses, barely a few meters. This poses a problem in terms of anticipation and safety of other hunters and dogs during the hunt. A bullet in a coworker is the kind of thing that ruins the day.

Regarding the special beaten glasses, they can only be used for the beaten-up because their very small objective diameter cannot be used for individual hunting on the lookout or on approach which are practiced in low light conditions.

Weight is also an important element to take into account for standing aiming, it is more difficult to aim with a heavy weapon and even “special battered” riflescopes weigh around half a kilo.

Battue glasses are mainly products resulting from marketing, allowing products to be sold at high prices on the European market where battue is widely practiced.

We strongly recommend the use of red dots, very light they do not suffer from any loss of field of vision and do not require eye relief (unlimited eye relief). The red dots almost all have a brightness adjustment to shoot in low light conditions or on the contrary when the weather is very sunny or the terrain is covered with snow. They can therefore be used even for the approach .

For this we recommend two red dots from Bushnell at really attractive prices: The Bushnell Trophy TRS-25 red dot and the Bushnell AR Optic Incinerate red dot .

Red Dot Bushnell Trophy TRS-25mm

Here is the Bushnell Trophy TRS 25 red dot, a low budget 113 gram red dot but whose functionality is not sacrificed.

It has 11 levels of light intensity that will allow you to always see your red point depending on the ambient light, whether it is low for lack of sun or on the contrary high in sunny weather or because of snow.

Bushnell also put the package in terms of treatment of the glasses, since it is about the patented multilayer treatment Amber-Bright which makes it possible at the same time to bring light and to create a strong contrast to correctly distinguish the game from the surrounding vegetation .

It is also waterproof, anti-fog and shockproof .

Zero is set using small, 1MOA-per-click, twist-off cap turrets. It is used with CR2032 batteries.

We can blame it for two faults, it is not part of Bushnell’s 30-year warranty , so you will only benefit from the 2-year legal warranty. His second flaw is that he doesn’t really like magnum calibers . We can easily forgive this defect because of its very low price.

For that price, you will never be able to find such a high quality rifle scope, especially in terms of brightness and contrast. The TRS 25 is priced around € 150 and the TRS 26 around € 250.

Red Dot Bushnell AR Optic Incinerate

The Red Dot AR Optic Incinerate from Bushnell is a range above the TRS-25 and similar to the TRS-26 .

It has 8 levels of brightness, its multilayer treatment is also an asset in terms of brightness.

It is resistant to magnum calibres, it is shockproof, anti-fog and waterproof. Its weight is only 60 grams!

It has a nice feature which is its hand screw for quick and tool-free disassembly . This is an appreciable comfort, in particular for those who also practice hunting on the lookout and approach and who also have a telescopic sight.

It turns off automatically when the protective caps are fitted , so no bad surprises of empty batteries at the next hunting session if you forgot to turn it off. In any case, this red point consumes little energy since it can last more than two weeks on at level 4 …

The AR Optic range also benefits from the 30-year warranty from Bushnell. It can be found at prices around € 250.

Versatile solutions for all 3 types of hunting

The most versatile and economical solution is to get a red dot for hunting days and a rifle scope for stalking and approaching. You can also equip yourself with quick-release rings for your scope so that you can remove it from your base by hand and without tools. To keep your zero, all you need to do is mount your front stop rings in your base as well as use a marker marked with a felt-tip in the base notches. 

So with a budget between 480 € and 630 € (Vortex Crossfire + TRS 25 or AR optic Incinerate / TRS26 + Bushnell Prime) you get the best for each type of hunt.

About “hunting” reticles

A final clarification for hunters who would be seduced by “hunting” reticles offered by certain manufacturers. These reticles have marks indicating not MOA but directly distances, so you only have to aim from these marks if you feel the distance is good.

These benchmarks are absolutely unreliable . Each ammunition in the same caliber has its own trajectory depending on its weight, powder charge, aerodynamic profile, barrel length, scratch pitch etc. Thus in the same caliber there can be noticeable differences in drop.

Knowing that these reticle marks are sometimes even calculated from cumulative averages of several different calibers with similar trajectories , we arrive at increasingly theoretical data and the result no longer really makes sense.

With regard to American manufacturers, the ballistic data of hunting reticles comes from the most popular calibers in the United States. Some calibers that we use in France are rarely used in the USA and vice versa. If you want to get a hunting reticle, check the manufacturer’s website beforehand for which calibers the reticle is intended for. If your caliber matches the manufacturer’s data then be sure to choose a very common ammunition model as well. Either way, don’t expect miracles.